3rd time in my life, I competed in a boulder competition. 1st time was in Japan when I was a super-beginner, 2nd was in New Jersey; came in 1st and won a pair of Sportiva climbing shoes.
This year, Portland Boulder Rally added a Master class for +35 years old, so I decided to participate in this class. However, it came out that there were only 3 participants, which means that however I do, I will get a prize anyway. BUT it wasn't the prize that I really wanted. I needed the highest points to see how I would have competed in the other classes.
The competition was scored with the highest 5 points you got, and thanks to a good friend that gave me advice, I was able to flash a high score problem. In this comp, how many attempts you do, the points will remain the same if you finish it (meaning that there are no deduction points), but the number of attempts will affect if its a tie.
Because there was a Youth class too, the problems were super good even for my size. Every problem had a way to do it.
Even though I was 150 points away from 1st place, it looks like I was something around 5th place in Intermediate. I did miss a high score problem that I wanted to get on, and actually finished it in 2 tries on the next day, but even with that problem(+100 points), I could never beat the winner. I had a chance to talk to her and found out that she was not only older than me but started climbing at an older age than me. I thought I was the only one(except my younger brother) who would start rock climbing at this age!
Overall, I was well prepared; starting hot yoga and training at the gym, and was able to give my best shot in all my climbs, so I am very satisfied and also even more motivated to climb now!
人生３度目のコンペ。NJでは背の高さが不利だろうとビギナーで参加して優勝しちゃったので、今回は３５歳以上のマスタークラスで参加。が！３名しか参加者がいなかったので不戦勝決定(￣Д￣;; そんなわけで賞品より点数重視に考えて頑張りました！
Portland Boulder Rally はユースが５クラス、Recreational(ビギナー)、Intermediate、Advanced、Open そして Master というクラス分けで、早朝にユース、午前中がMaster とOpenとIntermediateの半分、午後がRecreationalとAdvancedと残りのIntermediate が競うので、我々はOpenに出ているプロ達と一緒でしたw そうそう！プロは日本でも名の知れている方々がずらーっと！Angie PayneやPaul RobinsonやAlex Puccioや、総勢23名！
いわゆるセッション形式で最高得点の５つの合計で競われる。RPの減点はないが、同率になった場合にアテンプト数が基準になる。
マスターで一位になった人とは150点差。登ろうと思っていたのに忘れてしまった高得点の課題があり、翌日試したら２撃だったけど、それでも50点差。身長は20cm差。でも年齢は５歳上！始めた年齢も３歳上！負けてられない！イイ刺激を貰いました。
それにしても、西海岸１、２を争う大きなコンペだったようなのでプロセッターも参加していただけあり、課題が素晴らしかった。ユースでも登れるものを考えているから小さい私でもオプションがあってよくできていた。とはいえ、小さい分 引きつけやデッドや小ランジは当たり前(-。−;)アメリカンクライミングに慣れてきたみたいw
何はともあれ、ホットヨガやらジムでのトレーニング効果もバッチリ発揮できたコンペになったこととクライミングへのモチベーションが更に上がったので良しとしよう！
