Nov 9, 2011

Bishop, CA & Red Rocks, NV

Me on Birthday Direct V3***

 Yusuke & I first headed to LA to meet up with my best friend from junior high.  But since there was time, we went to Weiland Brewery and had beer and buffalo shrimp.   We had dinner at an Izakaya and talked so much about how we never thought we would be living in the States at the same time!!  Hope to see here again soon!!! 

 First thing in the morning, we drove to Bishop and met up with Glen from LV.  Since Yusuke made a plan to take turns on climbing/rest days, we went to Happy Boulders to go over problems I can do on the next day.  Everyone was warming up with the HIGH slab problem, Heavenly Path V1*** but I had no guts to hop on, so I climbed Which Road VB** first and then tried...  However, I could not get used to the rock and height yet, so I just went with another easy problem, Any Which Way V0+ .  After that, Glen suggested a problem that was my style, Solarium V4***  and tried to figure out my own move, but since this was Yusuke's climbing day, I decided to leave it for my next day.
Yusuke on Hulk V6***
Yusuke, on the other hand flashed Action Figure V6***!!!  That was amazing after his shoulder injury from falling of from The Hulk V6****....  Hope he gets well...

 For dinner, we went to Pizza Factory.  It was good for the cost!

Sunshine Boulder
 It was my climbing day so we were originally thinking of going to Happy again, but I agreed to go to Buttermilks when I heard that the approach was not a steep and sandy trail like Happy!  But again.... they hopped on a highball, Sunshine Boulder... sigh...  I climbed a simple line to get used to the rock and height and then tried Good Morning Sunshine V1*** but never even got to the middle...  Oh well, I can always find a smaller boulder.   So I tried Green Wall Essential V2*** and Birthday Direct V3*** a few times.  However, Yusuke was soooo excited that he was climbing away on his rest day, and we didn't realize that I hadn't finished anything until the sun was setting.  So we rushed to some starred problems, Hero Roof V0*** and Hager Arete V0**, which I was able to OS. 
Yusuke (on his "rest day"), finished 2 other V6s, Green Wall Center V6*** and Milks the Milks V6**!  Congrats!
 This night we went to Whiskey Creek and had lots of Mammoth beer!

Me on Green Wall Essential V2***
 Yusuke decided to take a whole rest day this day for the next day which would be our last day in Bishop.   This was actually my first time to have a climbing day for myself, so I was a bit lost but was eager to at least finish a starred V2.  As a warm up, I first tried Green Wall Arete V1**.  This took me a few tries and scarred me out to top out.  After that, I was devoted on Green Wall Essential V2***.  I don't know how many tries it took, but sent it at last!!!!
Now that I had no load on my shoulders, I decided to enjoy some easy starred problems.  Sent The Flake V1** in 2 tries, tried Monkey Dihedral V2*** but couldn't figure out the move, hopped on Birthday Direct V3*** again, and On-sighted Five and Dime V1**.
 And for dinner we went to Whiskey Creek which became or favorite!!

 Last climbing day in Bishop.  This day was a sending parade for Yusuke!!  He finished High Plains Drifter V7*** , Cave Route V6** and Bowling Pin Sit Start V6***, all in 2-4 tries!!   Good that he had a complete rest day... or maybe this was because we had no extra battery charged this day!  Anyway, HURRAY!!!
 I on the other hand, just had fun like hopping on A Birthing Experience V1* (finished OS) and trying Buttermilk Stem V1***.
Yusuke finished High Plains Drifter V7***
Othello feeling comfy on Yusuke's jacket
 Since Yusuke was satisfied, we drove to LV a bit early and met with Pilar at last!!!  We had dinner at a Thai food restaurant and a good sleep at their home.  Thank you Glen and Pilar!!  Oh, and of course, lots of love to the cute little Lolita and adorable Othello!!
Glen and Lolita
Me on Monkey Bars V2***
 Climbing day at Red Rocks at last!!  I looooved the rock quality; so soft and easy to smear on, and the grades were reasonable (not like the hard Bishop or Gunks grade). 
 I started with Various V0, Poker Chips V1** & Potato Chips V2*** and finished all by OS!!  Loving this place more!!!

 Potato Chips V2***

 Yusuke finished his project from 4 years ago, The Pearl V5*** and another V6 problem, Monkey Bar Right V6**.
 Before heading back, I asked if I can try any V3s, and was able to send an unnamed problem on the southeast face of The Butt Crack Boulder in a few tries.  Yeah!!
Glen on The Pork Chop, a cool boulder!!
Yusuke on The Pearl

 Overall, this trip made great progress for my climbing; I found out later on when I tried a problem at the gym that I never was able to reach.  Oh! Also was able to win first prize in Beginner at The Brawl 2011 competition!made great progress for my climbing; I found out later on when I tried a problem at the gym that I never was able to reach. Oh! Also was able to win first prize in Beginner at The Brawl competition!
 Which Road VB**
 Any Which Way V0+
 x Solarium V4*** 
 x Birthday Direct V3***
 Hero Roof V0*** OS
 Hager Arete V0** OS 
 Green Wall Arete V1**
 Green Wall Essential V2***
 The Flake V1**
 x Monkey Dihedral V2***
 x Birthday Direct V3***
 Five and Dime V1** OS
 A Birthing Experience V1* OS
 x Buttermilk Stem V1*** 
<Red Rocks>
 Beth Wald Boulder various V0
 Pokcer Chips V1** OS
 Potato Chips V2*** OS
 The Butt Crack Boulder southeastface V3
 Monkey Bars V2***  

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