Mar 24, 2013

Gum Harvest Fes!@Haycock

Deadpoint of Bubblegum V3**
  Yesterday, we went to Haycock for the first time in almost a year.  Personally, I hate this place because it seems so dark and the problems are so scattered and mostly harder than the grades.  Also considering the cold weather, I was absolutely not in a mood to climb and was only thinking of having a nice hike and picnic this day.
  However....  I did want to see if I got any stronger to finish Bubblegum V3** which was impossible for me last year.  At first, it was nearly the same but when Yo gave me a few advices "gaston right hand, pinch left hand and push up your butt!", I finally got the deadpoint and managed to finish it!!  Thanks Yo!


Bubblegum V3**


  Yusuke and Yo was working on Black Angus V9***.  At first, it seemed impossible to get the first hold, so Yusuke started to try the upper part, but once he got the move fixed, he AGAIN said "I'm gonna take a movie so that I won't forget the move for next time"  as he said when he finished Sicker than Average V8*, and AGAIN, he finished this problem too!!!  It seems that Yo is the one helping and giving luck to Yusuke to finish all his projects.


  While the guys were trying Black Angus, I was looking at Gumball V4*, which was another problem that I did touch last year but never even had luck to get the first hold or any other move.  When I figured out that I could get the first hold now, I had to try out all the other moves, and when I knew that I could do each of the moves, now I had to finish it!  Of course, Yo again gave me a good advice to use the first left hand as a undercling which came out to be the key.  However, trying it from the beginning and also practicing the moves several times, my finger joints were getting sore and useless.  So, I decided to have lunch and give it a last try before we move to another area and  Walla!  I did it!!

Gumball V4*