Nov 25, 2012

Fun Climbing!@LRC&HP40

 Our plan for Thanksgiving holiday was to climb at Little Rock City(Stone Fort/LRC) in Tennessee and Horse Pens 40(HP40) in Alabama.  We spent the first 6 days at LRC and the rest at HP40.  Thanks to Glen for not only joining us but making our trip super FUN!!  From Yusuke's stand point, spotting him is scary, but he is a great teacher and spotter for me; I don't know how many problems I conquered with his advice and cheer! 
  LRC was rather softly rated than HP40, so I managed to send some V4s which motivated me to climb on during this trip.

 The first V4 I sent was Mystery Groove V4***; learned that I can heel hook on a slopey crack!

Next was Mescal V4***; a problem to test my heel hook tech and crimp pull up strength.

Another was Pocket Pool V4**; found out that the top out was another crux but managed to work through it...

Last one I sent was Black Carpet V4**; had fun figuring out the move and actually happened to find an undercling when topping out.

 At HP40, first I was getting on V3s, but as I noticed that the grading was harder for a person that is not used to the boulder structure, I decided to have fun trying onsite/flash sends on V2s.  However, it was hard to onsite because the boulder is round shaped and difficult to see your foot holds especially when you're mantling with a sloper!  So even if I was able to send Orchid V2*** at my first try with no beta, I can only say that I flashed it cause I asked if my foot was on the hold when I was climbing.  Anyway, I finished a couple of V2s and luckily found a V3 that I thought was doable!  Not a fan of the problem's name, but definitely a 3 star tricky mantle problem.

Panty Shields V3***

Turtle Head Right V2**; missed flash using an unnecessary bad undercling, but sent it on the next try.

Lucky Charms V2**; figuring out the move (including balance and top out) of this weird figured boulder was the funniest part!

Eight Ball V2***; thanks to the guy that showed me his beta, I sent it on my 2nd try.

The Stranger V2**; started to try with no skin left, and sent it right after I said it was my last try!

Overall, I think I was motivated to climb a lot and did have fun climbing till my muscle was sore or skin was gone!  Very rare experience for me but I bet it was because of the boulder feature and Glen's cheer!

Nov 10, 2012

Days more than 8

Yusuke and I were spending one day of each weekends at Peter's Kill for the last 3 weeks because this area might be closed anytime it gets icy or any snow.  Today, we had Yojiro with us; which gave both of us VEEEERRRY good motivation and LUCK!!!  Thanks soooo much Yo!!  Yusuke actually finished one V7/8 and another V8 in a few tries!!
For me, I was able to resend Day8 V4* (which was one of a problem that I had to do over because of the mistaken start hold) in almost one try! (first try, I slipped at the start.. orz)
Anyway, I was so glad that I resent it in the right way.

Day8 V4*