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| taka on La Marie-Rose 6a |
We left Newark, NJ on the 24th of May and arrived at CDG, France the next day. When we reached CDG, we couldn't find our crash pads that we checked-in as large luggage, so we headed to the baggage claim, but while waiting in the line, they finally brought them! So glad they weren't lost!
Losing time to pick-up the crash pads, we even lost time in the long line for rental cars... We rented a mid-size car, but immediately found out at the parking exit that the roads in France are made for small cars... Anyway, we needed space for 2 pads and a suitcase, so no choice.
For our accommodation, I booked a gite(rental cottage) in Bourron-Marlotte. You can find gites from this website http://en.gites-de-france.com/. First contacted the owner by email and sent deposit as soon as she sent me the contract. This gite didn't accept credit card, so we had to prepare cash for the remaining amount.
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| Front of Gite |
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| Entrance of Gite |
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| 1st floor Living room |
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| 2nd floor Bedroom |
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| 1st floor Bathroom (shower & toilet) |
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| Courtyard |
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| Kitchen |
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| Cheese & Fruits |
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| Bakery |
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| Supermarket |
[Restaurants]
Le Martingo @Bourron-Marlotte
Best restaurant we went during our trip! Too bad they are closed on Sunday, Monday & Tuesday nights. They have quite a choice of appetizers, entrees and wine!
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| Lamb stew |
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| Escargo pie |
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| Roast duck |
Since most of the stores(including supermarket) and restaurants are closed on Sunday, we had no choice but to hop into a restaurant that was the only one open in Bourron-Marlotte. However, it actually ended up quite good. |
| Charcoal grilled beef |
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| Olive & mozzarella salad |
La Boheme @Barbizon
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| Foie gras salad |
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| Romeo ; Idle of Barbizon |
La Rotonde des Tuileries @Paris near Metro Pyramides
A restaurant we dropped by during our rest day in Paris. Since it was near the Tourist Information Center, they had English and even Japanese menus! Since we were in Paris, we decided to have Escargot and Beef Tartar, yummieee!
Au Bureau @Fontainebleau
Pub restaurant that I found in Trip Advisor. Good for beer, but normal bar food. Maybe good when you're missing American food.
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| Fried Camembert cheese |
Le Denecourt @Fontainebleau
Other than above, we went to Carrefour or 8 A Huit to get grocery, deli, beer and wine for breakfast and dinner.
[Climbing]
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| Undercling of La Fenetre 5a+ |
During our climbing trip, we went to Bas Cuvier, Rocher aux Sabots, Franchard Isatis, Apremont, Cul de Chien area. I usually do not think of any projects to work on when we're having a climbing trip, but this time, I wanted to see if I can finish the SUPER classic problem La Marie Rose 6a ; first 6a problem established in 1946, so when we went to Bas Cuvier, I was excited to go there! However, it turned out not looking like a 6a at all, I was already giving up and not even having any emotion to get on it. So I hopped on the 'circuit' which is most of the way everyone climbs in Fontainbleau. This circuit is colored by grade and I thought it was good to climb easy circuits to get used to the boulders. One of the problem I liked and tried until I got it, was La Fenetre 5a+ in Apremont Gorges. There's a neat huge hole that you use for an undercling!
La Fenetre 5a+
Having get used to the boulders, I decided (mostly because of Yusuke's pressure) to keep trying La Marie Rose 6a+(graded 6a+ for small people). Since this problem was very sand-bagged and temperature dependent, I planned a rest day to leave my skin and also asked if I can get on to the problem at early morning or in the evening when it is cooler. Trying for 3 days (but only few tries a day), I finally sent it!! I was so happy and glad that I kept trying!
La Marie Rose 6a+
Overall, the trip was very fruitful to me because 9 days of climbing in Fontainebleau, trained me to be able to hold on to slopers and stepping on slippery foot holds!!! Yeah!!!!
<Problems sent by area>
La Marie-Rose 6a+
(Usually 6a but graded 6a+ for small people; I think I'm small enough!)
La fissure de l'auto 2c
Le second retab 3a
Le onzieme trou 2c
Le sans les mains 2b OS
La voie de l'arbre 3b
La goulotte sans la goulotte 5c
L'envers du J 3b
L'oreille cassee 3b
La petite cotelette 2b
La fissure sud du coq 2a OS
- Apremont Gorges Blue Circuit
Blue 2 - Pas de Deux 3a
Blue 5 - 3b
Blue 6 - Ghengis 4a
Blue 7 - 4a
Blue 10 - Disque Bleu 3b
Blue 12 - Garros 3c
Blue 15 - Maurice 3c
Blue 18 - Lamartine 3c
Blue 20 - La Fenetre 5a+
Blue 22 - Rum 4a OS
- Rocher aux Sabots Blue Circuit
Blue 2 - dans l'Oeil 4a
Blue 3 - La Pince-Oreille 4b
Blue 4 - Tire a Vue 4c
Blue 5 - Devertissement 4c
Blue 6 - Pied de Nez 4b+
Blue 7 - Coup du Point 4c
Blue 8 - Bon Pied, Bon Oeil
Blue 11 - Ligne Secante 3b
Blue 13 - Trou d'Air 4a
Blue 14 - Fracture 4aBlue 15 - Trou d'Eau 4a+
