Jun 5, 2012

Smaller the better@Peter's Kill

taka on Tree Bola V3*
 Back to May 19th, we went to Peter's Kill so that Yusuke can finish The Hop V7.  And yes, he sent it in about an hour so I decided to try Tree Bola V3*.  I figured out all the moves including how to completely avoid the tree, but since the holds were even tiny for me, I was too pumped to send it.  Oh well, I can try the next day!
 On the 20th, we had a Japanese climber day in Peter's Kill.  There was Satoshi, Yosuke, Yasu, Ikko, Rie, Yusuke and I; big party!  First, I wanted to finish up the Tree Bola V3* so that I can enjoy rest of the day.  And at last I sent it, COMPLETELY avoiding the tree of course!!  This problem made me happy to be MICRO size!


Tree Bola V3*

 Everyone had something to send.
Yusuke trying to repeat Tigerstyle V7*
Yusuke finished the super hard V4 Midget Maker V4*, Yasu finished VB V3, Satoshi repeated The Classic One V5*, Rie finished Take it Easy Wally V1*, Ikko finished Midget Maker V4* and Mentos V4* but above all, Yosuke flashed VB V3 and sent Mentos V4* on his first outdoor climbing in a decade!

Rie sending Take it Easy Wally V1*,
Yasu sending VB V3
Satoshi repeating The Classic One V5*
Ikko sending Mentos V4*
Yosuke sending Mentos V4*
 At the end of the day, we moved to Infinite Eden area to get on Cloud 9 V4, but I realized that it was a reachy problem...  and another bad thing I was reminded of was that the start of Day 8 V4* was wrong....  now I have to do it all over again :(
Good thing is that I still have a problem to work on at Pkill!!
taka working on Cloud9 V4


Apr 29, 2012

Collection of V4s! @ Peter's Kill

taka sending Day 8 V4*
Went to The Gunks Peter's Kill with Yusuke, Yasu & Mayu.  Didn't know what other problems that I could get on, but my private coach Yusuke already had some in mind!!
We first warmed up at The Quarantine area and got on Take it Easy Wally V1* and Tree-Bola Direct-Direct V1.  Mayu was almost there to finish Take it Easy Wally V1* which would have been her first V1!  I'm sure she will get it next time.





Mayu on Take it Easy Wally V1*
Yusuke sending VD V3
 Meanwhile, Yusuke finished The Classic One V5* on his first try of this day and one of which he had on his to-do list.  Yasu and Yusuke also hopped on VD V3, the dino problem, and Yusuke also re-send it on his first try.

Yasu sending Mentos
Since Yasu wanted to get on Mentos V4*, we headed to The Rock Garden area.  For a demo, I repeated Mentos V4* and realized that this actually isn't a kind of problem that I'm bad at!  Congrats to Yasu, he sent it and also re-sent it 2 times for taking a movie!



taka sending Day 8 V4*
After lunch, we moved to Infinite Eden area to get on Day 8 V4*; a problem that Yusuke didn't finish years ago and wanted me to try.  Of course, Yusuke easily got it and as soon as I built up my own move, I sent it, too!!  (I also re-sent it to take some photos! lol)












Day 8 V4*


When moving to another area, we passed by Village Idiot V7* and just happened to see someone sending it, which of course made Yusuke eager...  I was worried of his injured fingers(caused by this problem), but got on promising not to push himself.  With all the background, I was moved to tears when he got the last hold and knew he got this problem.

Lastly, we went to the Khadejha Area to get on The Loner Boner V3*;  one of the problems Yusuke wanted me to get on.  When I first tried some of the moves, I found out that there were 3 reachy parts that I may not be able to do.  However, I stretched out as much as I could and used a difficult cross move to overcome my short lengths.  Even though this problem is said that it is more than a V3, I believe my move should have made it more harder. (Try it if you don't believe!)

Overall, I think I'm doing good these days; constantly sending V4s and V3s!




The Loner Boner V3*

Apr 15, 2012

The Gunks Lost City

Takako on V1
 Yo took Alex, Yusuke and me to The Gunks Lost City.  Since Yusuke injured his left hand and wanted to climb slowly, Yo suggested to go to the right area where there were more easy problems that Alex and I could get on.
We first warmed up on some V1s that was techy and fun!
Takako on V3
I then hopped on a V3 that looked like "my kind of style", but couldn't overcome the reachy move...  Looking at the right  photo, I now know that I can reach it if my right leg was straight!!  Next time, I'll get this.
Takako on Lighthouse V3




  Another V3 I tried was named Lighthouse V3.  This was surprisingly more of my kind!!  After finding out the start move and practicing the crux, I sent it in 2 tries.   




Yo and Yusuke was trying a A Little Something Something V5 that looked soooo bad...  Yusuke was able to send it, but didn't look like a V5!
Yo on A Little Something Something V5
Yusuke on A Little Something Something V5

Takako on Flying Jay V5
We all tried Flying Jay V5, but I couldn't get the dead point move...  If I could get that, I'm sure I can send this but I need to practice more heel hooks and straighten my heel muscle!!

I also tried Underworld V4 to increase my climbing grade pyramid, but this problem was out of my box!  No way I can send this in a while... orz
On the other hand, Alex was doing well on this problem.  So strong!


Alex on Underworld V4