Jul 13, 2012

Climbing Trip to Fontainebleau!

taka on La Marie-Rose 6a
 One of our dream came true!  Climbing at Fontainebleau!

We left Newark, NJ on the 24th of May and arrived at CDG, France the next day.  When we reached CDG, we couldn't find our crash pads that we checked-in as large luggage, so we headed to the baggage claim, but while waiting in the line, they finally brought them!  So glad they weren't lost!
Losing time to pick-up the crash pads, we even lost time in the long line for rental cars...  We rented a mid-size car, but immediately found out at the parking exit that the roads in France are made for small cars...  Anyway, we needed space for 2 pads and a suitcase, so no choice.

For our accommodation, I booked a gite(rental cottage) in Bourron-Marlotte.  You can find gites from this website http://en.gites-de-france.com/.  First contacted the owner by email and sent deposit as soon as she sent me the contract.  This gite didn't accept credit card, so we had to prepare cash for the remaining amount.
Front of Gite
Entrance of Gite
1st floor Living room
2nd floor Bedroom
1st floor Bathroom (shower & toilet)
This Gite had basic cooking stuff like pans, pots, seasonings, oil, as well as microwave oven and baking oven.  They also had towels of each size, but if you like fluffy towels from a hotel, you'd better bring your own.  The washing machine is outside in a different joint and shared with the other Gite.  They kept detergent and dish washing soap which was very convenient.

Cheese & Fruits
As soon as we arrived at the owner's house, she welcomed us with a baguette, cheese, fruits and beer!  She was a delightful lady who speaks fluent English.  I would definitely recommend this Gite, not only as an accommodation but also considering easy access to each climbing area, mini supermarket, bakery and a great restaurant called Le Martingo.

The mini supermarket, 8 A HUIT has a small meat corner that has deli dishes and many wines as well as anything a supermarket would carry.  During our stay in this village, we bought milk, yogurt, jam, fruits, salad, shampoo, water, wine, beer and some deli at this supermarket.


Le Martingo  @Bourron-Marlotte
Best restaurant we went during our trip!  Too bad they are closed on Sunday, Monday & Tuesday nights.  They have quite a choice of appetizers, entrees and wine! 
Lamb stew
Escargo pie
Foie gras pate

Roast duck
La Marlotte @Bourron Marlotte
Since most of the stores(including supermarket) and restaurants are closed on Sunday, we had no choice but to hop into a restaurant that was the only one open in Bourron-Marlotte.  However, it actually ended up quite good.
Charcoal grilled beef
Olive & mozzarella salad

La Boheme @Barbizon
 Restaurant in Barbizon, a small village that is known as Jean-Francois Millet's home and painters village.  Since many tourists come to this place, there were nice restaurants on the main street, but we went to La Boheme which was recommended from a friend in Japan.  Thanks to Kaoru-san!
Foie gras salad
Romeo ; Idle of Barbizon

La Rotonde des Tuileries @Paris near Metro Pyramides

A restaurant we dropped by during our rest day in Paris.  Since it was near the Tourist Information Center, they had English and even Japanese menus!  Since we were in Paris, we decided to have Escargot and Beef Tartar, yummieee!

Au Bureau @Fontainebleau
 Pub restaurant that I found in Trip Advisor.  Good for beer, but normal bar food.  Maybe good when you're missing American food. 
Fried Camembert cheese

Le Denecourt @Fontainebleau 
 Another restaurant we hopped in when we were having a rest day at Fontainebleau.   We just had salad and beer to satisfy our stomach until dinner.

Other than above, we went to Carrefour or 8 A Huit to get grocery, deli, beer and wine for breakfast and dinner.

Undercling of La Fenetre 5a+

During our climbing trip, we went to Bas Cuvier, Rocher aux Sabots, Franchard Isatis, Apremont, Cul de Chien area.  I usually do not think of any projects to work on when we're having a climbing trip, but this time, I wanted to see if I can finish the SUPER classic problem La Marie Rose 6a ; first 6a problem established in 1946, so when we went to Bas Cuvier, I was excited to go there!  However, it turned out not looking like a 6a at all, I was already giving up and not even having any emotion to get on it.  So I hopped on the 'circuit' which is most of the way everyone climbs in Fontainbleau.  This circuit is colored by grade and I thought it was good to climb easy circuits to get used to the boulders.  One of the problem I liked and tried until I got it, was La Fenetre 5a+ in Apremont Gorges.  There's a neat huge hole that you use for an undercling!

La Fenetre 5a+

Having get used to the boulders, I decided (mostly because of Yusuke's pressure) to keep trying La Marie Rose 6a+(graded 6a+ for small people).  Since this problem was very sand-bagged and temperature dependent, I planned a rest day to leave my skin and also asked if I can get on to the problem at early morning or in the evening when it is cooler.  Trying for 3 days (but only few tries a day), I finally sent it!!  I was so happy and glad that I kept trying!

La Marie Rose 6a+

Overall, the trip was very fruitful to me because 9 days of climbing in Fontainebleau, trained me to be able to hold on to slopers and stepping on slippery foot holds!!!  Yeah!!!!

<Problems sent by area>
- Bas Cuvier 

La Marie-Rose 6a+
(Usually 6a but graded 6a+ for small people; I think I'm small enough!)

La fissure de l'auto 2c 
Le second retab 3a
Le onzieme trou 2c 
Le sans les mains 2b  OS
La voie de l'arbre 3b 
La goulotte sans la goulotte 5c
L'envers du J 3b 
L'oreille cassee 3b
La petite cotelette 2b 
La fissure sud du coq 2a  OS

- Apremont Gorges Blue Circuit
Blue 2 - Pas de Deux 3a
Blue 5 - 3b
Blue 6 - Ghengis 4a
Blue 7 - 4a
Blue 10 - Disque Bleu 3b
Blue 12 - Garros 3c
Blue 15 - Maurice 3c 
Blue 18 - Lamartine 3c 
Blue 20 - La Fenetre 5a+ 
Blue 22 - Rum 4a  OS

- Rocher aux Sabots Blue Circuit
Blue 2 - dans l'Oeil 4a
Blue 3 - La Pince-Oreille 4b
Blue 4 - Tire a Vue 4c
Blue 5 - Devertissement 4c
Blue 6 - Pied de Nez 4b+
Blue 7 - Coup du Point 4c
Blue 8 - Bon Pied, Bon Oeil
Blue 11 - Ligne Secante 3b
Blue 13 - Trou d'Air 4a
Blue 14 - Fracture 4a
Blue 15 - Trou d'Eau 4a+